{"id":20400,"date":"2018-10-08T13:08:06","date_gmt":"2018-10-08T11:08:06","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.luigi-bevilacqua.com\/?p=20400"},"modified":"2019-05-21T09:30:24","modified_gmt":"2019-05-21T07:30:24","slug":"wild-side-manual-velvets","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.luigi-bevilacqua.com\/en\/wild-side-manual-velvets\/","title":{"rendered":"The wild side of handmade velvets"},"content":{"rendered":"

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Animalier prints have become a classic in both clothing and furnishing and always give a touch of character and liveliness. A bit like the little black dress, women’s passepartout, they never go out of fashion. We have already discussed their history and use in interior design<\/a>, but we would like to explain why they are so unique among our manual production<\/a>.<\/p>\n

Why choose a handmade animalier velvet?<\/h2>\n

The animalier range is very wide, with decorative motifs that reproduce the wonderful designs that nature has endowed animals with, to be able to hide or camouflage in their environment: zebra, tiger, leopard, python, crocodile, and turtle. Unlike their purpose in nature, the animal patterns in furnishing become a way to put an accent, an element that must be noticed and that alone is able to enhance an entire room.<\/p>\n

\"tucker

Photo: interior with coccodrillo cushions Tucker and Marks<\/p><\/div>\n

But besides the indisputable aesthetic beauty of these decorative motifs, its combination with the characteristics of manual velvets, makes choosing this fabric more sought after compared to an animalier version made with a mechanical loom.
\nCharacteristics that help to recognize this precious fabric and make it unique. For example, did you know that the width of a manual fabric does not exceed 67cm (which corresponds roughly to the length of an arm)? This is for a very practical reason: in the production of handmade velvet, the weaver must continuously cut the silk threads that will form the pile throughout the width of the fabric with a very sharp arm movement. If this width exceeded the length of her arm, the cut couldn\u2019t be clean and precise.<\/p>\n

And again, the soprarizzo velvet, the most elaborate among rich velvets, needs a more complex manufacture, achieved through the union of the cut velvet at the top, which defines the pattern, and the curly velvet at the bottom, which defines the borders. This process embellishes the design with its three-dimensionality and, above all, allows the light to reflect on the two types of velvet in a different way, creating extraordinary effects of light and dark and depth.<\/p>\n

The handmade velvet process is so complex that it requires weavers with a great deal of training and experience: it takes years to master this art. Despite their great skill, the pressure they put on the loom while weaving can be slightly different from one day to another and on the same day, with the result that the fabric will have small differences in the design and small imperfections that make it a unique piece.<\/p>\n

A process with ancient, slow rhythms of a few tenths of centimeters a day and time consuming, because it also involves the preparation of the manual loom, which requires from two to three weavers, for periods of up to six months. In fact, it starts from a drawing that is reproduced on graph paper to create the punched cards that are the basis for the functioning of a jacquard loom<\/a>.<\/p>\n

\"Velluto

Photo: Tigre drawing on graph paper<\/p><\/div>\n

These are just some of the characteristics that make the handmade animalier fabrics, not only a product that is undoubtedly aesthetically beautiful, but also of great artistic and craft value. Just as the furnishings that are made from them, such as decorative cushions, they are a unique and precious artifact because they are the expression of centuries of history, techniques, craftmanship and art that have been handed down over time and that are a heritage of knowledge.<\/p>\n

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Photo credits: Scott Frances<\/p>\n

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What are the characteristics of manual animalier velvets that make these fabrics so precious and unique, and such a distinctive touch in furnishing?<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":10,"featured_media":20348,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_et_pb_use_builder":"on","_et_pb_old_content":"

Le stampe animalier sono diventate un classico sia nell\u2019abbigliamento che nell\u2019arredo e riescono sempre a donare un tocco di carattere e vivacit\u00e0. Un po\u2019 come il tubino nero, passepartout delle donne, non vanno mai fuori moda. Abbiamo gi\u00e0 parlato della loro storia e dell\u2019utilizzo nell\u2019arredo di interni<\/a> ma vorremmo spiegarvi ora perch\u00e9 sono cos\u00ec unici nella nostra produzione manuale<\/a>.<\/p>

Perch\u00e9 scegliere un velluto animalier manuale?<\/h2>

La gamma animalier \u00e8 molto ampia, con motivi decorativi che riproducono i meravigliosi disegni di cui la natura ha dotato gli animali per potersi nascondere o camuffare nel loro ambiente: zebra, tigre, leopardo, pitone, coccodrillo, tartaruga. A differenza del suo scopo in natura, la fantasia animalier nell\u2019arredo diventa un modo per porre un accento, un elemento che deve farsi notare e che da solo \u00e8 in grado di far esaltare un intero ambiente.<\/p>[caption id=\"attachment_20336\" align=\"aligncenter\" width=\"670\"]\"tucker Foto: interno con cuscini in velluto manuale Coccodrillo. Credit: Tucker and Marks[\/caption]

Ma oltre all\u2019indiscutibile bellezza estetica di questi motivi decorativi, l\u2019abbinamento con le caratteristiche proprie dei velluti manuali rende la scelta di questo tessuto pi\u00f9 ambita rispetto ad una versione animalier realizzata con telaio meccanico.<\/p>

Caratteristiche che aiutano a riconoscere questo tessuto tanto pregiato e che lo rendono unico. Per esempio, lo sapevate che la larghezza di un tessuto manuale non supera i 67cm? (che corrisponde approssimativamente alla misura di un braccio) Per un motivo molto pratico: nella produzione del velluto manuale, la tessitrice deve continuamente tagliare i fili di seta che formeranno il pelo per tutta l\u2019ampiezza del tessuto, con un movimento molto deciso del braccio. Se questa ampiezza superasse la lunghezza del suo braccio, il taglio non potrebbe essere netto e preciso.<\/p>

E ancora, per il velluto soprarizzo, il pi\u00f9 pregiato e dalla manifattura pi\u00f9 complessa, la particolare lavorazione fa s\u00ec che il risultato sia un tessuto cangiante, grazie alla presenza di due diversi tipi di pelo, uno riccio di base e uno liscio, pi\u00f9 alto. Questa lavorazione impreziosisce il disegno con la sua tridimensionalit\u00e0 e soprattutto permette alla luce di riflettersi sui due tipi di velluto in modo diverso, creando degli effetti straordinari di chiaro-scuro e profondit\u00e0.<\/p>

Una lavorazione talmente complessa quella del velluto manuale, che richiede tessitrici con una grandissima preparazione ed esperienza: sono necessari anni per la loro formazione. Nonostante la grandissima abilit\u00e0, la pressione che imprimono al telaio durante la lavorazione pu\u00f2 essere leggermente diversa da un giorno all\u2019altro e nello stesso giorno, col risultato che il tessuto avr\u00e0 delle piccole differenze nel disegno e piccole imperfezioni che lo rendono cos\u00ec un pezzo unico.<\/p>

Una produzione che ha dei ritmi antichi, lenta, di poche decine di centimetri al giorno. Tempi lunghi che riguardano anche l\u2019allestimento del telaio manuale, per il quale devono lavorare dalle due alle tre tessitrici, per periodi che arrivano fino a sei mesi. Si parte infatti da un disegno che viene riprodotto su carta millimetrata per creare poi le schede forate che sono alla base del funzionamento di un telaio jacquard<\/a>.<\/p>[caption id=\"attachment_20327\" align=\"aligncenter\" width=\"670\"]\"Velluto Foto: messa su carta velluto manuale Tigre[\/caption]

Queste sono solo alcune delle caratteristiche che fanno s\u00ec che i tessuti animalier realizzati manualmente, siano non solo un prodotto indubbiamente bello esteticamente, ma anche di grande valore artistico e artigianale. Cos\u00ec come gli oggetti d\u2019arredo che ne derivano, quali i cuscini decorativi, sono manufatti unici e preziosi perch\u00e9 sono l\u2019espressione di secoli di storia, di tecniche, di manualit\u00e0, di arte che si sono tramandati nel tempo e che sono un patrimonio del sapere.<\/p>

\u00a0<\/p>","_et_gb_content_width":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[4],"tags":[208,199,46],"class_list":["post-20400","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-fabrics","tag-animal-skin-patterns","tag-animalier","tag-velvet"],"yoast_head":"\nThe wild side of handmade velvets<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"What are the characteristics of handmade animalier velvets that make these fabrics so precious and unique, and such a distinctive touch in furnishing?\" \/>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/www.luigi-bevilacqua.com\/en\/wild-side-manual-velvets\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"The wild side of handmade velvets\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"What are the 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